Shabbat in the Holy City

Last night's bad weather gave way to some bright sun this morning to greet us on Shabbat. We began the day with a conference-wide Shabbat service at Mercaz Shimshon, the site of our opening dinner. Mercaz Shimshon has floor to ceiling windows with a view of the Old City walls. Imagine that as the backdrop to your service! As we prayed, the trees behind the Rabbis and Cantors were swaying deeply in the breeze, seeming to almost bow in prayer with us. In addition to reflective prayers and spiritual melodies, there were a few highlights. One was the aliyah of rabbis ordained in 1959, celebrating 50 years in the rabbinate. It was made even more special by the fact that my colleague and friend, Rabbi Don Goor, blessed this jubilee class, including his own father. Rabbi Janet Marder, the first woman president of the Conference, delivered a simply unbelievable interpretation of the Haftarah portion. Rabbi Ellen Weinberg-Dreyfus was installed as our new president. And the service concluded with an azkara, a memorial of colleagues who passed away this year, including a beloved professor, Dr. A Stanley Dreyfus (coincidentally, father-in-law of our new president.)
The service was followed by the Alumni Luncheon of Hebrew Union College, our Reform seminary. I shared the lunch with Rabbi Sheldon and Fern Harr, who installed me last month… he sends regards to the entire congregation. The highlight of the luncheon is always the “roll call,” where each year is called out, and members of the class stand to be recognized. Believe it or not, the oldest class called was Dr. Ezra Spicehandler, who was ordained in 1945, and marks his 64th year in the rabbinate! The lunch included a wonderful text study on the joys of Purim with my professor and former camp unit head, Dr. Aaron Panken.
After lunch, several friends and I made our way through the maze of the Old City to the Western Wall, or the Kotel. Shabbat afternoon, especially when the weather is bad, is a particularly quiet time at the Wall. I had the opportunity for a few quiet moments of reflection and prayer, which I find even more meaningful in that place. Some find it difficult to experience spiritual moments at the Kotel. I suppose I am fortunate to have had many positive experiences there, and I truly enjoy visiting. My friends helped me place your notes in the Kotel… they could not believe how many I brought from TBI.
The weather turned worse, so we had to cut our trip short and head back to the college for Havdalah services. Havdalah took on an extra sense of separation, as colleagues begin to make their departures. It is always wonderful to share time with colleagues and friends, and it was made even more special by sharing it with them here in Jerusalem. I can say that I have learned much from them, that I believe will help enhance our experiences together within the congregation.
Tomorrow is our conclusion. My bags are packed, and I will be returning home tomorrow night. I cannot guarantee what availability I will have on the internet, so I believe this will be the final blog entry for this trip. For those who have read this website, I hope you found it informative. While I wish you could have been here with me, I hope you have felt a sense of the excitement and joy I experienced in Israel. Writing this provided me with the mechanism to evaluate each day as well, so it made my trip more meaningful. Thank you for sharing this journey with me.

L’shalom m’Yisrael,
Rabbi Treiser

Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem

Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem! Today was a dark, rainy, windy day, the kind of day to stay inside. Yet with Shabbat approaching, there was still a full schedule. The day began at Binyanei Ha’umah, the Israel Convention Center. We held the first every Pluralistic National Beit Midrash, a study session joining the rabbis with Israeli teachers and students in small group text sessions. Together we explored the theme of change vs. maintaining traditions. It was an interesting opportunity not only to study, but also to learn with Israelis who study from a very different perspective.
The convention center is located near one of my favorite spots in all Jerusalem – Machane Yehudah market, also known as the shuk. Every Friday thousands of Israelis flood the market buying food and supplies for Shabbat. When I lived in Jerusalem, my roommate and I made the trek each week as well. So some friends and I headed to the shuk for lunch- the best falafel I’ve had the whole trip- and shopping. Fresh baked pita bread, hummus and eggplant salad, za’atar spice, and some halvah make for a great pre-Shabbat, Shabbat, or post-Shabbat snack. The only other required purchase is chocolate rugulach from Marzipan bakery. EVERYONE stops there for these delicious treats. Almost every rabbi was there, along with what seemed like half the city. After the shop, we all headed back to the hotel for a little rest.
Shabbat provided us with the opportunity to visit some of the Reform congregations located throughout the country. I was sent to Ma’alot Tivon, a congregation in the town of Kiryat Tivon, about 40 minutes southeast of Haifa. Tivon is a very special place for me. When I lived in Israel in 1993, I volunteered for two months at a boarding school for disadvantaged children located there. It was impressive to see the growth of a tiny town into a burgeoning city. The rabbi of this small congregation welcomed the three of us to into the congregation for services and a family dinner. It was so special to share in services that were familiar in many ways, yet with slightly different melodies, and of course a lot more Hebrew. This wonderful community wanted to learn more about all of us, and shared in a question and answer session along with a great sing-a-long, led by their 81-year-old music specialist. I exchanged cards with the rabbi, and I hope that we will to do some work with this congregation in the future.
Shabbat can be a wonderful time in Jerusalem. The entire city more or less comes to a close. The shops are dark, the busses stop running, and people walk from place to place. It is truly a city at peace and rest for 24 hours. I hope the weather will get a little nicer tomorrow, so I can enjoy some of the city and Shabbat outdoors tomorrow after services.
Once again, Shabbat Shalom.

A Visit to Tel Aviv

I notice that I want to start each blog by saying what an incredible day it was. I guess that means the entire trip is incredible! Today was a day celebrating the 100th anniversary of Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv is the oldest Hebrew city founded in the modern era. All of the rabbis began the day by bussing over to Tel Aviv. The name Tel Aviv literally means “Hill of Spring,” or “Spring Hill,” just like ours in Pasco County. Yet it really symbolizes much more. A Tel is an archaeological mound, where layers of civilizations are built on top of previous layers, creating an immense treasure trove of history about several different civilizations at once. It represents the “old.” Aviv means Spring, the season of rebirth, renewal and freedom. It represents the “new.” Together then, they represent Old and New. This is the fulfillment of Zionist thinker Theodore Herzl’s dream. He wrote the novel “Altneuland” in 1902, describing a modern Jewish city blossoming with the talents of Jews from around the world. Altneuland means “Old New Land,” and was translated into Hebrew as Tel Aviv.
We met with members of the IMPJ, the Israel Movement for Progressive Judaism, and MARAM, the Israel Reform rabbinic organization. I went with three other American rabbis (and one spouse) to meet with Rabbi Orna, a Reform rabbi based in Ramat Hasharon. She took us on a tour of the ancient port city of Yaffo (Jaffa) as we walked to a café owned by a Jewish woman and Arab man. We discussed some of the challenges she faces as a liberal rabbi in Israel not recognized by the religious authorities and her personal path to the rabbinate. We rejoined the conference for lunch at Mishkenot Ruth Daniel, a hostel and conference center which serves as a center for Liberal / Reform Judaism in Yaffo. We were greeted by Ron Huldai, the mayor of Tel Aviv and a great friend and ally of the Reform movement. From there it was off to tour unique parts of Tel Aviv and Yaffo. I was assigned to a group called “Our Bread and Butter.” Together we toured the old city of Yaffo once again. This time, however, the tour was about the importance of bread as a form of sustenance, financial measures, and its role in religious life. The trip included a stop at Aboulafia bakery, an incredible bakery that has been in business consistently since 1879. We climbed to the top of the port, and enjoyed some incredible views.












Perhaps the most moving experience of the entire trip was our next stop. The entire conference went to Na LaGa’at, a center for aiding those who are deaf, blind, or both. We visited a café run by 20 members of the deaf community. Though we did not have time to go, Na Laga’at includes a restaurant called “Blackout.” The entire wait staff is blind. Because they need no light to see what they are serving, there AREN’T ANY. The entire restaurant is in the dark. But the highlight of the visit was a show put on by 11 members of the community. Called “Not By Bread Alone,” the deaf/blind / deaf-blind actors and actresses put on a show in which they shared their dreams and hopes through music and interpreters, all while kneading and preparing bread. The show concluded with the entire audience “singing” along with the cast in Israeli Sign Language. We were invited to the stage to speak with the actors through simple sign language or their interpreters, and to taste the delicious bread baked on stage a well.
After that, we had the night free in Tel Aviv. I joined colleagues from Miami, Naples, and Washington D.C. on Dizengoff Street before heading back to the hotel.
Like I said, what an incredible day. Tomorrow we prepare to celebrate Shabbat here and around the world, so I wish you a Shabbat Shalom.

A Day of Adventurous Exploration

The first official day of the conference was a very interesting one. We began the day with the business meeting of the CCAR. The Conference has undergone a significant visioning and governance revision process, very similar to the one our Temple board undertook recently as well. The members of the Conference voted to approve the suggested changes to the structure of our board, in order to make it more productive and effective. We also heard from Rabbi Eric Yoffie, the President of the Union for Reform Judaism, our national congregational body. Like our synagogue, and almost every synagogue and group in the country, the URJ is undergoing significant financial strains. While there had been a process already in place looking to review how to best improve the Union, the budget crisis has forced the URJ to take action more quickly. In the next two weeks or so, rabbis, Presidents, Union staff and lay leaders will be hearing about the changes that will be made to the Union. It is clear, however, that the changes will be drastic. The final act of business was to vote on the new slate of officers. Rabbi Ellen Weinberg Dreyfus, of B'nai Yehuda Beth Sholom in Homewood, Ill., was elected as President. She is the second woman to assume the presidency of the CCAR. Interestingly, that now means that women are presidents of three out of four major rabbinical associations in America, as a woman is President of both the Reconstructionist Rabbinical Association and the conservative Rabbinical Association as well.
The Conference then divided into a variety of tikkun olam projects, visiting with non-governmental offices (NGOs) throughout the country to better understand their work. I was assigned to a group called Tzilul, which means clear or clarity. They work throughout Israel to protect and promote environmental issues, especially cleaning the many polluted rivers and streams in the Tel Aviv area… they were quite impressed that I come from a town called “Clear Water – Tzilul Mayim!” They brought our bus of 40 rabbis to the Yarkon River in Tel Aviv. They provided us with bikes and helmets and led us on a bike ride along the river. Yes, that’s right… for the first time in 15 years, I rode a bike! While our 5-6 mile ride was incredibly beautiful, it was also very sad. The Yarkon River is so toxic that people are warned not to go in it at all. You may remember about 12 years ago when a bridge holding the Australian delegation to the Maccabi games collapsed as they prepared to enter the opening ceremony. The bridge dumped the athletes into the river. 4 of them died, not from the fall, but from exposure to toxins in the water. Several athletes are still hospitalized today will illnesses caused by the river water. We rode on to the port of Tel Aviv, where the Yarkon meets, and dumps into, the Mediterranean. Tzilul is working hard to clean up the Yarkon, and in turn reduce the pollutants from entering the sea as well. After a lunch on the sea shore, we headed back to Jerusalem.

Some friends and I headed out from the hotel to the Old City, my first time there on this particular trip. While we did not make it to the Kotel or Western Wall on this particular visit, we did take some time to explore the streets and do a little tourist shopping. When I was here last, it was considered unsafe to enter the Shuk, or the marketplace, between the Christian, Armenian and Muslim Quarters. I was happy too see that today it was very safe, and we were welcomed by all the merchants.
I met with another friend to visit Yad Lakashish, or Lifeline for the Aged. The very special organization provides programs and opportunities for the needy elderly in Jerusalem who have no families, and no one to care for them. By offering stimulating and creative work opportunities, they produce beautiful handmade Judaica, while at the same time give the elderly a sense of satisfaction and purpose. This very special program is supported by selling the artwork. Rest assured, I did my share to support the program!
The evening concluded with some dinner with friends and a chance to reconnect. It is really a great time to just be able to sit in a restaurant or café and catch up with one another, to enjoy company and share experiences with colleagues.
Tomorrow it’s back to Tel Aviv to celebrate the 100th anniversary of this first Modern Hebrew city in the State of Israel. It is late and has been a long day, so I will sign off for now.

Another Busy and Exciting Day in Jerusalem

What an incredible day today was. The last morning before the conference officially began, this was a day to run around and get things done you want to do in your free time. The day started with a visit to the Hadassah Hospital in Ein Kerem, home of the famous Marc Chagall stained-glass windows. By coincidence, we ended up with a private visit as the only ones there. The windows are a beautiful interpretation of the blessings given by Jacob to each of his twelve sons before he died. What I thought was most incredible was the way Chagall repaired four windows after they were damaged by a bomb in the Six Day War. He incorporated pieces from the damaged windows into the new designs, so that they would serve as a reminder of what had happened. In Israel, even something new has within it remnants of the old as well.
We went from there on to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial and Remembrance museum. I have been to Yad Vashem several times (the first time was immediately after a preview screening of “Schindler’s List” before it was released to the public--- talk about a powerful moment,) and every visit is special and moving. This, however, was my first time to the museum since its complete expansion and renovation. It is, simply put, an unbelievably overwhelming experience. The new Holocaust History Museum walks you through the entirety of the Jewish experience, from life in Europe before the Holocaust, through the rise of Hitler and the Nazi Party, to Kristallnacht and the ghettos, to the concentration camps and the gas chambers, until you finally reach liberation and resettlement following the war. As you leave the museum, a grand landscape of the Judean Hills and JNF forests are displayed before your eyes. It simply took my breath away. After the history museum, we spent some time at the Hall of Names, where Pages of Testimony are stored for 2.5 million victims of the Shoah. You should know that you can search the archives of the Pages of Testimony, and add one yourself for a loved one who perished in the Holocaust, on their website, www.yadvashem.org. Our final stop was the Children’s Memorial. It is a haunting experience as you walk through a darkened room, lit only by a few candles reflected through dozens of mirrors, so it seems as if there are a million sparkles in the sky. As you pass through, the names and ages of child victims are slowly recited, in a never-ending memorial to the 1.5 million children who perished.
We made our way back to the hotel, which is no easy feat these days. If you have ever been to Jerusalem before, you know that traffic here rivals New York City during rush hour, though Israelis drive even more dangerously. Making things worse, Israel is installing a light rail / train system. Many of the major roads in the city are reduced to one-lane in each direction. It is a scary experience to drive or be in a cab in Jerusalem.
The Conference began with a welcome dinner at the beautiful Mercaz Shimshon, a conference center attached to the rabbinic school with beautiful views of the old city. It was great to see so many friends and colleagues from around North America. Over 300 rabbis are here for the conference, and we always look forward to catching up, and learning best practices from one another (I’ve gotten some great ideas to share another time!) Perhaps the highlight of the night was our special guest, a welcome and address by Nir Barkat, the dynamic new, young mayor of Jerusalem. Having recently retired from the tech world, Barkat brings a different approach to leading the city. He asks everyone to view issues from the side of the “other”: ask Orthodox views to understand the secular point of view, the liberal to understand the conservative, etc. He embraces the Reform movement and encourages our participation in Israel. He is pursuing an agenda of change that will bring Jews back to Jerusalem (the Jewish population is shrinking in Jerusalem 1-3% per year due to high costs and low job availability,) and wants to invest in Jerusalem’s tourist industry, hoping to increase tourism to 10 million visitors within 10 years. To be honest, I was tremendously impressed with Mr. Barkat, and I hope he has tremendous success with his endeavors.
Tomorrow promises to be another exciting and long day. Since it is nearly 1 AM here, I better get some rest.

Trip to the North and preparing for the Conference

Today represented a transition to the beginning of the conference, with a pre-conference tour to the North. Early this morning, several rabbis were picked up by Reuven, our tour guide, and David, the Assistant Principal of the EIE Israel program (more on that later.)
Our first stop on the tour was Beit Sha’arim in the town of Kiryat Tivon, about 90 minutes northwest of Jerusalem. This fascinating site was one of the homes of the Sanhedrin, the ancient rabbinic court, after it fled from Jerusalem’s destruction. Most importantly, it was both the birthplace and resting place of Rabbi Judah HaNassi, the President of the Sanhedrin. As President, he wrote and redacted the Mishnah, the first great Jewish law code. Because of his importance and fame, many people desired to be buried near him. From the 3-4th century C.E., Beit Sha’arim was a veritable necropolis or “city of the dead.” We explored the catacombs that are filled with fascinating ossuaries and burial chambers.

After touring the archaeological site, we were taken to lunch at a very unique restaurant. Nagish Café literally means “accessible coffee” essentially saying “the coffee is ready.” But reality, this is a play on words. The restaurant is run by a social-service organization that provides job training and opportunities for adults with a variety of mental or physical disabilities. Everyone except the main chef and manager have some type of disability, yet here they are encouraged here they are trained for work in the world. The food was outstanding as well.
Our next stop on the tour was the ancient village of Tzippori, about ½ hour west of Tiberias. Tzippori was a Jewish and non-Jewish village. In the non-Jewish section, there is a fully restored theater area, acoustically designed so that every seat can hear actors on the stage without any amplification. But what makes Tzippori really stand out as unique are its mosaic floors. In the synagogue, there are incredible mosaic descriptions of biblical scenes and zodiac symbols. In the great house nearby there are other beautiful mosaics, detailing the trials of Hercules and the portrait of a woman known as the “Mona Lisa of Israel.”

Our final stop on the tour was Kibbutz Tzuba outside of Jerusalem. Tzuba is the base for EIE, the Eisendrath International Exchange program. EIE is the High School in Israel program for sophomores, juniors and seniors from Reform congregations in the US. It is a fantastic opportunity for students to immerse themselves in Israel while earning credits at an accredited school. We were invited to eat dinner in the kibbutz dining hall, which is always an interesting experience. Because most places are kosher, they serve either meat or dairy dishes. On most kibbutzim, lunch is the meat meal, while breakfast and dinner are dairy (a common joke is, “how do you tell the difference between a kibbutz breakfast and dinner? Look where the sun is.” I said it’s a common joke, not a funny one!) Once again, we were treated to a large variety of salads, cheeses, borekas and pasta dishes. We finally returned to the hotel 12 hours after departing.
When I got back, it was clear that the convention is starting. I saw several classmates and colleagues in the lobby, and a few of us went together to Ben Yehuda Street, the local pedestrian mall, to catch up.
I’m very curious to see what happens when the conference begins. It’s not exactly a secret… in fact, it made the morning news. Here is the link to a brief story in the Jerusalem Post: http://www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?cid=1233304850051&pagename=JPost%2FJPArticle%2FShowFull
(Trust me, don’t bother reading the feedback below it, they will only make you upset!)
What will be interesting to see is what I can only call a clash of cultures. Many Reform Rabbis, men and women alike, have begun to re-embrace some of our older traditions, including wearing kippot (yarmulkes) and tefillin. Yet in this hotel, there are consistently large groups of ultra-Orthodox Jews. I wonder what will happen when these close-minded ultra-religious Jews see women wearing kippot and tefillin. All I can say is, it should be interesting! I’ll be happy to keep you informed.
Tomorrow is the last free day before the conference, which starts tomorrow night. Some friends and I are spending time tomorrow at Yad V’Shem, the Holocaust memorial museum. It was renovated a few years ago, and I have heard it is even more impressive than it was in the past. It will be a difficult day to be certain, but I know it is worth it as well.

A Day in the Desert

This morning, my friend Mike, along with his wife Shara and daughter Daphne, for a trip down to Masada and the Dead Sea on a cold, overcast day. Thanks to construction delays and bad directions, we got significantly lost before finally making our way below sea level. As you drive to the Dead Sea, you find yourself in the Judean Hills. When people imagine what the land looked like when Abraham first came to Canaan, this is what we most often envision. Scattered along the hillsides are Bedouin encampments, essentially small shantytowns. Nearby you see young boys herding their goats and sheep. One anachronism I saw was this home, a shack of loose pieces of corrugated metal, with a satellite dish installed on the roof. I guess this Bedouin has his priorities!
Along the way we stopped at Qumran, near the shore of the Dead Sea. Qumran was the home of the ancient Essenes, an ascetic sect of Jews, who isolated themselves from the world in the caves in the area. They practiced a very different type of Judaism from what we know today. Most importantly, they were the authors of the Dead Sea Scrolls, the oldest surviving texts of the Bible, along with many other important texts as well. You can see one of the caves where the scrolls were found in the photo below, between Mike and me.

We next headed down to Masada, King Herod’s ancient fortress and the site of the zealots’ last stand against the Roman legions. When we arrived, I found that my friend Jon (who I met last night for drinks) was finishing up a tour, so he joined us for lunch at the base of the mountain. There are three ways to get to the top of Masada: the Roman Ramp side is a significant climb, but not too difficult, the Snake Path is a challenging, windy hike up the face of the mountain, or you can take a Cable Car. Given the weather and having a 4 year old with us, we opted for the Cable Car. We spent several hours on top of the mountain fortress, exploring the remarkable ruins. This was the first time I visited Masada in the cool winter. Normally, when one visits in the summer, you climb before sunrise, so you can get to the top and tour before it gets too hot. Since it was cool and overcast, this made for a very pleasant afternoon on the mountaintop. As we explored the ruins, we were also overcome several times by the natural beauty of the desert, and simultaneously the thunder of modernity, as fighter jets flew overhead patrolling the border every 20-30 minutes. We finally made it back down for a little break at the base camp.

We continued heading south and made a stop at a beach on the Dead Sea. Though it was definitely too cold for any but a few Europeans to go swimming, Shara did take a moment to dip her feet in the mineral-rich waters. As we stood at the lowest point on Earth, we could see how the drought is affecting the waters. In many places, the shoreline has receded several hundreds of feet. While this is partially due to Israel’s diversion of water for drinking and farming, the years’ long drought has taken its toll as well. Interestingly, though, several sections of road were partially flooded with waters flowing through the wadis, or dry river beds, swollen with water rushing down from yesterday’s rains.

Mike drove us to Beersheva for two meetings. First we visited his 86 year old cousin Shoshanna. Because she did not know how to tell us where she lived, I had the chance to practice my Hebrew several times while asking for directions. Several people I stopped told me they only spoke Russian, as Beersheva was one of the central locations for placing refugees from the former Soviet Union. We then met Mike’s friend Dani for dinner. Dani is a photographer on the staff of Ben-Gurion University, who lives in the old city of Beersheva, one of the only cities in Israel actually built by the Ottoman Turks. This neighborhood is undergoing a revitalization, as students and artists are turning this once neglected town into a trendy arts district. Over dinner, once again our conversation turned to politics. Dani is a far-left leaning liberal, who struggled with his vote in this election. In the end, the small party he supported did not garner enough votes to be included in the Knesset. Again though, he seemed to feel that a two-state solution, with Israel’s withdrawal from the majority of the West Bank, was the only path for peace. After a long day, we finally made it back to Jerusalem near midnight.

The headlines in Israel today focused on two matters. Of profoundly more importance was the meeting today between Tzipi Livni and Bibi Netanyahu. Netanyahu hoped to convince Livni to join him in a national unity government. If they formed one together with the Labor party, they would be able to work together without being held to the whims of the Religious Right or Radical Left parties. Interestingly, Kadima, Livni’s party wants her to join, though she continued to refuse it today. Ehud Barak of Labor wants to join the unity government, but his party will not allow it. However, all have agreed to talk more in a few days, and hopefully progress will be made.
The second story is tonight’s Oscars. The film “Waltz with Bashir” is nominated for Best Foreign Language film. If it should win, it would be the first Israeli film to earn an Academy Award. I imagine at the time you are reading this, you will already know the results.

Another long day tomorrow. The “pre-conference” begins with a trip the North, visiting the ruins of Beit Shearim and the ancient mosaics at Tzippori. We will also meet students participating in the EIE program, the Reform movement’s High School in Israel program, at Kibbutz Tzuba.

Mashiv HaRuach U’Morid HaGashem

Mashiv HaRuach U’Morid HaGashem--- The One Who Brings the Wind and Sends the Rain. This is the liturgical addition to the Gevurot prayer, which praises God’s many powers. Well, God was showing off a little bit today in Jerusalem. It was a cold, rainy, windy, day. Hail fell quite a few times today, and from what I was told, it snowed on Mt. Hermon for the first time this year. The fact is, the rain is welcome here, as Israel is under a severe drought. My friend told me it rained only one day in January, normally one of the wettest months of the year.
Shabbat began with a typical, luxurious Israeli breakfast in the hotel: salads, smoked fish, cheeses and fruit. Everything is remarkably fresh and delicious. If you have never tasted an Israeli tomato before, then you have never REALLY tasted a tomato at all. The added bonus today was that I had breakfast with Senator Joe Lieberman. Alright, I had it next to Senator Lieberman, who is staying at the hotel and was at the table next to mine.
I attended Shabbat morning services at the synagogue of the Jerusalem campus of Hebrew Union College, conducted by the dean of the College, Rabbi Michael Marmur, and various Cantorial Students. The room was filled with rabbis here early, together with members of congregations here on tour with their HUC ordained rabbis. After inspiring services, I took the time to walk around the campus. HUC Jerusalem is located on what is now one of the prime pieces of real estate in the country, just outside the Jaffa Gate into the Old City. (Fascinating story of how they got the land--- before the Six Day War, this was an unwanted wasteland abutting the “no-man’s land” between Israel’s West Jerusalem and the Jordanian-controlled Old City. Dr. Nelson Glueck, the president of the College, recognized the potential of the land, and received it from Israel on a 99-year lease, paying one dollar a year! The original building was built with very thin windows, to prevent them from being shot by Jordanians.)
The campus itself is a beautiful place to spend time in study and personal reflection. There are rosemary bushes spread throughout the grounds, offering their beautiful aroma as you stroll the campus, which was designed by world-renown Israeli architect, Moshe Safdie. I spent some time in the very private mediation garden with it spiral fountains, and made my way to the upper balcony for the incredible view of the Old City. I am attaching some photos of the campus, the meditation garden, and the view from the school

Later that afternoon, I was picked up by my colleague Rabbi Michael Churgel, with his wife and daughter. Mike and I are classmates, were best men at each other’s weddings, and experienced many of life’s ups and downs together. We were born three weeks apart at the same hospital, lived in the same neighborhood as children, and have a nasty reputation among our classmates for getting into trouble whenever we’re together. Fortunately, it seems we have outgrown that reputation. I went with his family to the Israel Museum, visiting the Shrine of the Book, the model of Second Temple era Jerusalem and the temporary exhibits. Unfortunately, the main exhibit is closed for three years as the museum is undergoing a complete renovation, and it was raining too hard to visit the sculpture garden. We decided to drive around and look at some of the changes since our time there together. We made our way to East Jerusalem, and spent a few minutes getting pictures of the “other side” of the Old City you usually don’t see. Take a look here:

This evening, an old friend from home stopped by the hotel for a visit. Jonathan Cutler and I went to the same elementary and junior high schools, and he was my fraternity brother in college. He made aliyah about 13 years ago (we ran into each other then, too!) and works now as a licensed tour guide throughout Israel. After catching up, we spent a great deal of time discussing the political situation here. Even though he is politically right wing (in fact, he told me the tour company will not assign him to the Reform Rabbis groups, because they know he will get into too many arguments,) he shared some very interesting insights. He told me about his military experiences patrolling the Palestinian towns in the West Bank, and how he came to realize that no matter what the politicians agree to, there is so much hatred there that there may never really be peace. Even as a “right of center” secular Israeli, even he agreed that the only long range solution will be a unilateral withdrawal from almost the entire West Bank. But, he said, we can’t go back to the pre-1967 (Six Day War) borders, because Israel will never give up Jerusalem. Everything else, he thinks, should be on the table. It was great to hear a different view from someone “on the ground,” who I know loves this country so much. We’ll be meeting for diner later this week.
Speaking of dinner, I headed out in the miserable weather for my most important spot to visit, a shwarma and falafel stand. This is Israeli street food at its finest, and I can guarantee you that there will be several more visits to the different shops while I am here.
As I spent time traveling around, I was happy to see that my Hebrew is coming back. Like everything else in life, if you don’t use Hebrew regularly (and by that I mean conversational, not prayer Hebrew,) you lose it. Well, it is slowly coming back, and hopefully by the end of the week I will be able to hold a basic conversation. I’ll check with Matan when I get back.
Hoping to make it to Masada tomorrow, depending on the weather. Shavua Tov--- Have a great week.

Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem!
It’s difficult to find the words expressing what I have been feeling since arriving. The words that keep coming out are “Oh my God!” and “Oh Wow!” “Oh my God” seems to come out as I see roads and landmarks that I remember so vividly, as if I was just here yesterday. It’s amazing how much one can remember of a particular place. Stepping out of the hotel to find a place for dinner, I knew the path I was walking as if I had walked it every day for the last 10 years.
“Oh Wow” came out each time I realized I was looking at something new. The road from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem is filled with development just a few years old (the road itself is newly done, too.) There is so much new in this ancient city. Dozens of new stores line the streets. And if it isn’t built yet, it will be soon, because there is construction EVERYWHERE in Jerusalem. From this beautiful hotel, I look out my window and see the brand new Mamilla Avenue, apparently Jerusalem’s answer to Rodeo Drive. And there are many more stores and restaurants open on Shabbat Eve than there used to be, a sign of secular life making a greater impact on Israeli society.
Yet along with all the new I see, Israel is still Israel. I was still pushed and jostled off the plane by Israeli passengers. Drivers still find a way to make 3 lanes out of a one lane road. Customer service still leaves a bit to be desired. Jerusalem is still remarkably quiet for such a large city, as most people here observe some form of Shabbat. And of course, all the sites that have made Jerusalem special for 2000 years are still here as well.
Tomorrow I hope to have some quiet time exploring the Jewish Quarter of the Old City on Shabbat. A sudden rumble of thunder in the distance just now may mean my plans will have to change, but that's the wonderful of a true Shabbat... there is no schedule, just time for refreshing the body and the soul. For now, it’s time to reset my body clock and enjoy a little Shabbat Menuchah or Sabbath rest. Shabbat Shalom and Laila Tov.

I suppose I should begin with a message of welcome to this blog. This is something I never really thought I would do, because blogging seems somewhat narcissistic. Why would anyone care about what I am doing and thinking on a daily basis? But I decided to write this blog for three reasons: 1- I believe it is essential for each of us as Jews to maintain a strong connection to the modern State of Israel and the best she represents, 2- This is an historic time for the Jewish state, and the timing of this visit allows me to hopefully share with you some of the views from there, and 3- Because this trip is so important to me personally, I thought it would just be nice to share it!

I’m writing this first message in the middle of the flight to Israel, with about 5 hours left of a 12 hour flight from Atlanta. If you have ever traveled to Israel, or been on an extended flight like this, you know this is a surreal moment in the flight. With all the shades drawn on the plane, it feels like the middle of the night. Indeed, my body thinks it is about 4:30 in the morning. Yet if I crack open the shade just a bit, bright daylight fills the plane, as we crossed the sunrise sometime around 3 AM. My body feels like I should be asleep (as almost everyone around me is,) but I cannot sleep. I never could sleep well on a plane, and to be honest, I am very excited about this trip.
Why am I so excited? This represents a bit of a homecoming for me. This is my first visit to Israel in 13 years. It is so hard for me to believe that it has really been that long, because my time there are a major part of the person I am today and the path I took to become a rabbi. I spent two years in Israel after college. The first year was on Project Otzma, a Federation-sponsored Peace Corps type program. After coming home from that, I returned a few months later to begin my rabbinic studies in Jerusalem. Needless to say, living in Israel for two years totally changed my life for the better. I am the man I am, and the rabbi I am, in part because of the experiences I had there. So you can imagine why this trip, even if it is short in comparison to my last visits, means so much to me. In some ways, it really is like returning home, and I cannot wait to see all that has changed and developed alongside all the ancient wonders and modern cities I remember.
You may ask why, if it meant so much to me, I have waited so long to go back to Israel. There are two reasons. First, life has simply “gotten in the way,” because this has been an incredible time in my life. This has been a time in which to literally build my life. In those intervening years, I became a rabbi, married my wife, began our wonderful family, and mourned the loss of my father and grandmother. Second, well, I promised Rachel. Rachel and I had only been dating a few months when I left for Rabbinic School. We could have easily parted ways being apart for a year, but we maintained our relationship. A significant part of that was because Rachel spent her month-long winter vacation with me in Jerusalem. Rachel had saved her whole life to tour Europe after college graduation, as many do, and she used that fund to come see me instead. So I owed her. I promised not to go back to Israel until I took her to Europe. Well, life kind of got in the way of that, too. I’m sorry to admit that I am breaking that promise, but only “sort of” breaking it. In her INFINITE kindness and understanding, Rachel said she was fine with me going on this important trip. That is partially because Rachel and I will celebrate our tenth anniversary this year, and she knows that she gets to pick the destination!

I recognize that I am rambling a bit in this entry- that is what happens when you are sleep-deprived. I promise that my next entries will not be as lengthy.
Just want to add two more quick things:
1- I love being on a plane where they make all the announcements in English and Hebrew. I just think it’s so cool!
2- You never know who you will meet on a plane heading to Israel. I knew that I would be seeing a colleague and her husband on the flight… we’ve made arrangements to share a cab to Jerusalem. But as I waited on the security line at the gate, I saw a familiar face, Hanoch has been a member of the Israeli delegation to Camp Coleman for the last 7 years, working closely with Amy, Cantor, Matan and me. He is returning home after a visit to the US for a wedding and visiting Coleman. If you know someone who has been to Coleman in the last 8 years, then they all know Hanoch. He asked me to send along greetings to everyone from TBI he knows, and looks forward to seeing you this summer again. I have attached a photo of us on the plane.

I’m going to see if I can at least take a little nap now. Next post will be from Jerusalem.
L’hitra’ot--- I’ll see you soon.